Showing posts with label tire change. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tire change. Show all posts

Saturday, May 8, 2010

GS500 Rear Tire Replacement

This post documents putting a new Pirelli Demon Sport Touring Rear Tire size: 130/70H-17 on my 2007 GS500F.

Tools Used:
tools needed
1) Get the bike on the center stand to lift the rear tire up
IMG_1494
2) Use the angle cutter or pliers to remove the cotter pin
IMG_1500
3) Use the 14mm wrench and 14mm socket to remove the bolt attaching the rear caliper to the support
IMG_1520
4) use the 22mm wrench or impact and the 17mm wrench to loosen the castle nut on the axle and remove the axle.
IMG_1499
5) Slide the tire forward to remove the chain from the rear sprocket and remove the tire from the bike
IMG_1503
6) Remove the tire from the wheel. Here is a video showing how to dismount and mount a tire in less than five minutes using the cheap harbor freight tire changer I use.
Old tire and new tire:
old and new
7) get the tire on the balancer and balance it
IMG_1508
this tire needed five 1/4oz (7g) weights to get it balanced
IMG_1509
8) grease up the axle with a small amount of axle grease
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9) reinsert the axle after putting the brake caliper back
Rear caliper bolt torque: 25 ft-lbs
IMG_1512
put the chain on the sprocket too
IMG_1514
10) put the castle nut back on and use a new cotter pin
Rear axle torque: 40 ft-lbs
IMG_1532
11) Seat the bead on the tire with the air compressor and inflate to 36 psi.
12) Go for a ride and enjoy your new tire!
new rear tire installednew rear installed on gs500

Related Article:

  • GS500 Front Tire Replacement
  • Friday, May 7, 2010

    GS500 Front Tire Replacement

    This post documents putting a new Pirelli Demon Sport Touring Front Tire size: 110/70H-17 on my 2007 GS500F.

    Tools Used:
    IMG_1493
    1) Get the front tire off the ground. If you still have the center stand, this is easy. I put two 50lb sand bags on the rear seat, and the front tire stayed in the air.
    IMG_1448
    2) Using the 14mm socket, remove the two bolts holding the front brake caliper on.
    IMG_1450
    Place a rag on top of the fender to protect it. Lift the caliper out of the way and place on top of the front fender.
    IMG_1455
    3) Using the side cutters or pliers, remove the cotter pin from the castle nut.
    IMG_1454
    4) Using the 19mm and 17mm wrench, remove the castle nut from the axle.
    IMG_1456
    and pull the axle out.
    IMG_1459
    5) Remove the tire from the bike
    6) With a valve core tool, remove the valve from the valve stem to let all of the air out of the tire.
    IMG_1461
    7) Break the bead on the tire. There are a lot of different ways to do this. Some of them easier, but I thought I’d try something new with this tire change and try C-Clamps. Tightening the clamps on the tire will break the bead.
    IMG_1462IMG_1466IMG_1469IMG_1470
    One side of the tire’s bead broken away from the rim.
    IMG_1472
    I found it helpful to use a rim protector to get the bead on the other side broken.
    IMG_1473IMG_1474
    8) Once the bead is broken on both sides, you can start using tire levers to lift one side of the tire over the edge of the rim. Use the rim protectors to avoid marring the paint. Liberal use of Windex help lubricate the tire off the rim.
    IMG_1475
    9) When the first side is completely off, flip over and push off the other side. Again, use the Windex to make this part easier.
    IMG_1476 IMG_1477
    The new and old tire side by side:
    IMG_1478
    10) When mounting the new tire note the direction arrow on the tire and align appropriately.
    IMG_1479
    11) Using more Windex and rim protectors, lever the first side of the tire on.
    IMG_1481
    12) Once the first side is on, lever the second on. Windex helps a lot. Also make sure to keep the tire pushed down in the rim. This keeps the tire in the narrow part of the rim making it much easier to lever that last bit of tire over the edge.
    IMG_1482
    13) Replace the valve and lubricate the tire again with Windex. Use an air compressor to quickly fill the tire. This will cause the bead to seat on the rim. You will hear two loud “pops” as the bead seats.
    IMG_1483
    This little compressor works great and was only $10 at a local auction.
    IMG_1484
    14) Fill the tire to the recommended 33psi
    IMG_1485
    15) mount the tire on a balancing stand and balance.
    IMG_1486
    This tire was balanced by adding three 1/4oz (7g) weights.
    IMG_1490
    16) Remount the tire to the bike and torque to the following specs:
    Front Axle Nut: 30 ft-lbs
    Front brake caliper mounting bolt: 30 ft-lbs
    17) Replace the cotter pin with a new one
    18) Take the bike for a ride
    19) Enjoy a cold beverage!
    I recognize using C-clamps and levers is the “hard way.” I do own a tire changer. It brakes the bead in a few seconds compared to the minutes it takes with the clamps. It also dismounts and mounts the tire far faster and easier than levers. Good tools cost good money, but save LOTS of time.
    I bought the tire changer last year when I realized how many miles I was putting on my bikes and how many my wife was also riding. We needed between three and five sets of tires a year between all of the bikes. At $70-$100 per set to have them professionally installed, we recouped the cost of the tools in one year.

    Related Article:

  • GS500 Rear Tire Replacement

    Written by Chrisluhman for Everyday Riding. All rights reserved.

  • Monday, May 3, 2010

    SV meet Q2s

    Today, was the day I had planned to get my new tires installed on my SV650. I planned for today since it wasn’t supposed to rain. I really didn’t want to ride in the rain with new tires.


    I ordered Dunlop Q2s (160/60-17 and 120/60-17) to replace my Dunlop Qualifiers. I really liked the Qualifiers and went through two sets in 2009. Lloyd got me a good deal on the tires, so I had him install them too.

    My first set of Qualifiers last year did 7100 miles and were very worn. The second did only 5300, but could have done more. I just didn't feel like it was a good idea to have very worn tires for the upcoming class. My old rear tire was about at the wear bar in the center, but still had a bit of tread left on the edges. I wanted to change them today, so I would have time to break them in before our advanced riding course on May 15th.

    Wear bar at the arrow below (old tires): 
    old tire at the wear bars old tire at the wear bars, but tread left on the edges
    The sky opened up shortly after I left work, and I got to put my rain gear to good use as I rode through a small thunderstorm. As I crossed 494, it quit raining and was dry the rest of the ride.

    Lloyd put my new tires on much quicker than I could myself, and he kept me entertained with interesting stories from this past weekend’s group ride.

    Shiny new tires:
    new dunlop Q2s on SV650new dunlop Q2s on SV650

    The old front tire looked pretty good, so I decided to bungee it up and take it home. I plan on using it to practice tire plugging. It managed to stay put the entire 40 mile ride, and it really wasn’t in the way either.
    took the old front home

    The ride home was rather interesting as I ran into the same storm again as on the way to the shop. Riding in a thunderstorm with new tires is rather interesting, but I made it home without incident.
    When I got home, I found this nice little pile waiting for me:
    new goodies for the GS500

    The GS500 also gets new tires. The long box is new handlebars, and the small box is holding the wheel weights. I plan on mounting and balancing these tires myself since I have all the tools to do it, and I’ve had practice with the Super9. The WR250R and Ural don’t count since they are tube tires, and those are pretty easy in comparison.

    Friday, September 18, 2009

    WR250R D606 Tires & Fly HD Tubes Install

    I received my Dunlop D606s for my WR250R last Friday, but I didn't receive the new heavy duty tubes to go with them. Since I was lazy and didn't want to remove the tires twice, I waited. Last night I was finally able to get them installed! This is my first time changing motorcycle tires, so I hope I don't pinch a tube.

    We will be installing:

    Dunlop D606 90/90-21 Front Tire
    Dunlop D606 120/90-18 Rear Tire

    Fly Racing Heavy Duty Tube - 2.75/3.00-21 Front
    Fly Racing Heavy Duty Tube - 4.50/5.10-18 Rear
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  • The first step for me was to remove the front tire. I used a 22mm wrench for the axle and a 10mm wrench for the axle pinch bolts. Then slide the spacers and the axle out.


    Breaking the bead before using the tire spoons!


    Then carefully remove the tire and tube. I want to use the stock tubes to carry as spares since they pack quite small compared to the new HD tubes.


    Here the stock Trailwing TW301/TW302, D606, and a dirt bike tire are compared:

    As you can see, the D606 seems to be a good street-able balance between the three, it is also about an inch more in diameter compared to the trailwing.

    Here is the new Fly HD rear tube compared to the stock rear tube. The Fly HD is on the top.


    These are the two best tools you can have when changing a tire:

    (an extra pair of hands, not the gloves!)

    The finished front and rear:


    Luckily, I didn't pinch either of the new tubes or the old tubes. The new tires are much more substantial than the stock trailwings. The tire carcass is much stiffer and the knobs much taller.
    I haven't had the chance to test the tires in the sand yet, but they seem great so far on gravel and the street. I can't wait to finish breaking them in to really test them on the street.

    Specs on the tires:
    Dunlop D606 Dual Sport - 90/90-21 Front
    Dunlop D606 Dual Sport - 120/90-18 Rear
    Specs on the tubes:
    Fly Racing Heavy Duty Tube - 2.75/3.00-21 Front
    Fly Racing Heavy Duty Tube - 4.50/5.10-18 Rear

    UPDATE: 2000 miles later, I’m loving this setup. The D606s work better on every surface compared to stock.

     

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