This will explain how to bleed your brakes the lazy way. The brake on my Ural was unusually annoying to bleed. It is just one nice, straight length with no high spots, but I couldn’t get any feel in the lever. If you have a lot of time on your hands, this might be the method for you.
Showing posts with label guide. Show all posts
Showing posts with label guide. Show all posts
Thursday, February 2, 2012
Wednesday, June 29, 2011
GS500 Air Filter Replacement or Cleaning
Cleaning the air filter can help prolong the life of the engine in your motorcycle. This post document replacing the air filter on a 2007 Suzuki GS500F. The same procedure applies for cleaning. Suzuki recommends cleaning the air filter every 2,000 miles and replacing it every 7,500 miles or two years. The gas tank needs to be removed to change or clean the air filter.
The tools I used:
1) Put the motorcycle on the center stand to make it more stable.
2) Remove the seat. Turn the key while lifting up on the rear of the seat.
Seat removed:
3) Ensure the fuel petcock is turned on and the fuel cover on the tank is secure. The fuel tap is under the tank, and will be turned off in step 6.
4) Use the 12mm socket and ratchet to remove the two bolts, each one securing either side of the tank.
5) Gently lift up on the rear of the tank and slip a piece of wood to support it.
6) From the right side of the bike looking towards the left, the fuel tap is visible under the tank.
Use a flatbladed screw driver to turn the fuel tap from on (vertical) to off (horizontal)
7) Using the pliers, loosen the two hose clamps and remove the fuel hoses from the fuel tap. Make a note of which hose goes where. I used a zip tie to mark one side.
Have a rag handy to catch the couple drips of gas that will be in the hoses.
8) Remove the water drain hose
All three hoses removed:
9) Now that the tank is free of the hoses, lift up on the rear of the tank and pull towards the back of the bike slightly. The tank should come free easily. Place in a safe place.
10) The air filter is held by four Philips screws. Use the Philips screwdriver to remove them.
Note the two clips also held the the bottom two screws:
11) Remove the air filter
12) If cleaning use compressed air to blow it clean. This one is a bit dirty.
13) The Old (left) and New (right)
14) Install the new filter and replace the four screws. Remember the two cable clips on the bottom.
15) Reinstall the gas tank and reconnect the three hoses.
16) Remember to turn the fuel tap back to the on or vertical position.
17) There is no specified torque for the two rear 12mm bolts.
18) Go for a ride!
Other GS500 Guides/Howtos:
The tools I used:
- flathead screwdriver
- Philips screwdriver
- 12mm socket and ratchet
- pliers
- A small piece of 2”x4” wood to prop up the rear of the tank
- rag to catch any drips of gas
- HFA3503 Air Filter or K&N SU-5589 Air Filter
- includes affiliate links to support the blog
1) Put the motorcycle on the center stand to make it more stable.
2) Remove the seat. Turn the key while lifting up on the rear of the seat.
Seat removed:
3) Ensure the fuel petcock is turned on and the fuel cover on the tank is secure. The fuel tap is under the tank, and will be turned off in step 6.
4) Use the 12mm socket and ratchet to remove the two bolts, each one securing either side of the tank.
5) Gently lift up on the rear of the tank and slip a piece of wood to support it.
6) From the right side of the bike looking towards the left, the fuel tap is visible under the tank.
Use a flatbladed screw driver to turn the fuel tap from on (vertical) to off (horizontal)
7) Using the pliers, loosen the two hose clamps and remove the fuel hoses from the fuel tap. Make a note of which hose goes where. I used a zip tie to mark one side.
Have a rag handy to catch the couple drips of gas that will be in the hoses.
8) Remove the water drain hose
All three hoses removed:
9) Now that the tank is free of the hoses, lift up on the rear of the tank and pull towards the back of the bike slightly. The tank should come free easily. Place in a safe place.
10) The air filter is held by four Philips screws. Use the Philips screwdriver to remove them.
Note the two clips also held the the bottom two screws:
11) Remove the air filter
12) If cleaning use compressed air to blow it clean. This one is a bit dirty.
13) The Old (left) and New (right)
14) Install the new filter and replace the four screws. Remember the two cable clips on the bottom.
15) Reinstall the gas tank and reconnect the three hoses.
16) Remember to turn the fuel tap back to the on or vertical position.
17) There is no specified torque for the two rear 12mm bolts.
18) Go for a ride!
Other GS500 Guides/Howtos:
Sunday, June 26, 2011
GS500 Spark Plug Replacement
This post documents replacing the spark plugs on a 2007 Suzuki GS500F. This is very easy to do on the GS500 since the plugs are exposed. Suzuki recommends checking the electrode gap clearance every 4,000 miles or 12 months. Suzuki also recommends replacing the spark plugs every 7,500 miles or every two years. The correct electrode gap is between 0.8mm and 0.9mm. The recommended plug is: NGK DPR8EA-9. The GS500 needs two, one for each cylinder.
The tools I used:
1) Put the motorcycle on the center stand to make it more stable
2) Carefully pull the spark plug boot off of the top of the plug.
Boot removed and spark plug exposed:
3) Then use compressed air or a rag to clean around the base of the spark plug.
4) Using an 18mm deep socket or spark plug wrench, remove the spark plug
The old (left) vs. the new (right). The gap on the old is over 0.9mm and out of spec. The electrode also appears a bit worn.
5) Check the electrode gap on the new NGK DPR8EA-9. It should be between 0.8-0.9mm.
6) I added a very small amount of anti-seize lubricant on the threads of the spark plug to make it easier to remove in the future.
7) Hand tighten the plug and then use the wrench another 1/4-1/2 turn. The engine is made of aluminum and it could easily damage by over tightening.
8) I used a small amount of dielectric grease on the end of the spark plug to prevent corrosion.
9) Attach the spark plug boot and ensure it fits snuggly.
10) Repeat on the other side.
11) Go for a ride!
Other GS500 Guides/Howtos:
The tools I used:
- ratchet with 18mm spark plug socket or a 18mm deep socket (the original wrench was lost by the previous owner)
- spark plug gap tool
- anti-seize lubricant (optional)
- dielectric grease (optional)
- 2 x NGK DPR8EA-9 spark plugs
- includes affiliate links to support the blog
1) Put the motorcycle on the center stand to make it more stable
2) Carefully pull the spark plug boot off of the top of the plug.
Boot removed and spark plug exposed:
3) Then use compressed air or a rag to clean around the base of the spark plug.
4) Using an 18mm deep socket or spark plug wrench, remove the spark plug
The old (left) vs. the new (right). The gap on the old is over 0.9mm and out of spec. The electrode also appears a bit worn.
5) Check the electrode gap on the new NGK DPR8EA-9. It should be between 0.8-0.9mm.
6) I added a very small amount of anti-seize lubricant on the threads of the spark plug to make it easier to remove in the future.
7) Hand tighten the plug and then use the wrench another 1/4-1/2 turn. The engine is made of aluminum and it could easily damage by over tightening.
8) I used a small amount of dielectric grease on the end of the spark plug to prevent corrosion.
9) Attach the spark plug boot and ensure it fits snuggly.
10) Repeat on the other side.
11) Go for a ride!
Other GS500 Guides/Howtos:
Saturday, June 25, 2011
GS500 Gas Tank Removal
The GS500 gas tank can easily be removed in just a few minutes with minimal tools. The tank does not need to be empty to remove it. The tank needs to be removed to clean or replace the air filter, check or adjust the valves, or adjust or clean the carburetors. This post will document removing the tank on a 2007 Suzuki GS500F with the fairing already removed. On some GS500s, the side panels may also need to be removed.
The tools I used:
1) Put the motorcycle on the center stand to make it more stable.
2) Remove the seat. Turn the key while lifting up on the rear of the seat.
Seat removed:
3) Ensure the fuel petcock is turned on and the fuel cover on the tank is secure. The actual fuel tap is under the tank and will be turned off in step 6.
4) Use the 12mm socket and ratchet to remove the two bolts, each one securing either side of the tank.
5) Gently lift up on the rear of the tank and slip a piece of wood to support it.
6) From the right side of the bike looking towards the left, the fuel tap is visible under the tank.
Use the flat-bladed screwdriver to turn it to the off position which is horizontal.
7) Using the pliers, loosen the two hose clamps and remove the fuel hoses from the fuel tap. Make a note of which hose goes where. I used a zip tie to mark one side.
Have a rag handy to catch the couple drips of gas that will be in the hoses.
8) Remove the water drain hose
All three hoses removed:
Another shot of the three hoses.
9) Now that the tank is free of the hoses, lift up on the rear of the tank and pull towards the back of the bike slightly. The tank should come free easily. Place in a safe place.
10) Installation is the reverse of removal. I found it easiest to put the rear fuel hose on first, and then the front. They are quite close together and make for a tight fit.
11) Remember to turn the fuel tap back to the on or vertical position.
12) There is no specified torque for the two rear 12mm bolts.
Other GS500 Guides/Howtos:
The tools I used:
- 12mm socket and ratchet
- flat-bladed screwdriver
- pliers
- A small piece of 2”x4” wood to prop up the rear of the tank
- rag to catch any drips of gas
- includes affiliate links to support the blog
1) Put the motorcycle on the center stand to make it more stable.
2) Remove the seat. Turn the key while lifting up on the rear of the seat.
Seat removed:
3) Ensure the fuel petcock is turned on and the fuel cover on the tank is secure. The actual fuel tap is under the tank and will be turned off in step 6.
4) Use the 12mm socket and ratchet to remove the two bolts, each one securing either side of the tank.
5) Gently lift up on the rear of the tank and slip a piece of wood to support it.
6) From the right side of the bike looking towards the left, the fuel tap is visible under the tank.
Use the flat-bladed screwdriver to turn it to the off position which is horizontal.
7) Using the pliers, loosen the two hose clamps and remove the fuel hoses from the fuel tap. Make a note of which hose goes where. I used a zip tie to mark one side.
Have a rag handy to catch the couple drips of gas that will be in the hoses.
8) Remove the water drain hose
All three hoses removed:
Another shot of the three hoses.
9) Now that the tank is free of the hoses, lift up on the rear of the tank and pull towards the back of the bike slightly. The tank should come free easily. Place in a safe place.
10) Installation is the reverse of removal. I found it easiest to put the rear fuel hose on first, and then the front. They are quite close together and make for a tight fit.
11) Remember to turn the fuel tap back to the on or vertical position.
12) There is no specified torque for the two rear 12mm bolts.
Other GS500 Guides/Howtos:
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
