Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Ural Battery Removal and Replacement

I heard the battery in the Ural could be tricky to remove, so I thought I'd get some practice with it in the comfort of my well lit and warm garage. After doing it, it isn't hard at all. The Odyssey PC680 fits in the Ural.

I like to use the tools that I carry on the bike to make sure I am not missing anything. It also ensures I've had some experience using them and learned their limitations.

Tools needed:

tools needed to remove battery

1) Remove the left side cover by gently pulling on it
2) Use the 17mm socket to remove the bolt under the front of the seat.
17mm bolt holding front of seat

3) Remove the seat by pulling it slightly forward while rotating up.
pull seat foward and tilt upseat removed

4) Use the allen wrench to remove the four bolts holding the seat mounting plate on.
remove this plate under the seatallen wrench to remove bolts
I couldn't get enough torque for some of the bolts with the normal wrench. I put the end of the screwdriver on the wrench to extend it slightly and provide a more hand-friendly grip.
use the screwdriver handle to make the allen wrench easier

5) Remove the plate.
plate removed

6) Use the 8mm wrench and the philips screw driver to loosen the bolt holding the battery tie down in place.
loosen the battery tie down

7) The top of the battery was blocked by a cable connected to this plug, so I found it necessary to disconnect it.
disconnect this connector to get the battery out

8) Use the philips screwdriver to disconnect the battery terminals negative (black) then positive (red).

9) The trick to removing the battery since there is hardly any space is to:
a) Hold the kick starter down with your foot to add an extra inch to work with
b) Shift the bottom of the battery forward and start to twist it
c) Get the bottom of the battery on the upper right side and the top on the lower left (see below)
d) Watch for snagging cables. It will just slide out with less than 1/8" all around.
e) It is a bit heavy, so don't crush your fingers.

trick to removing battery

10) Done! Reverse the steps to reinstall the battery.

This is a picture of my "original" Harley battery for reference. My original Russian factory battery was defective and replaced immediately after purchasing my Ural.
"original" HD battery

I would use the Odyssey PC680 Battery in the future.


I have replaced the stock battery with the Odyssey PC680 Battery and cold weather performance is noticeably better. To put the Odyssey batter in, I needed to remove the airbox.

Related Posts:


  1. Chris:

    you may as well put in one of those SAE 2 wire connectors while you are at it. I use those for my electric vest or battery tender. It would also come in handy for powering 12V battery charges for your electronic stuff or camera batteries

    Don't worry about getting your GoProHD after Gary. He has to be in London for a custom bike show, so he won't have time to play with it. If I were him I would charge the battery and take some video at the show handheld. You can get a lot of stealth video as it looks like a toy and no one will really notice it

    bobskoot: wet coast scootin

  2. Yoik! Urals might look like beemers, but a BMW battery sure is easier to remove.

  3. "It isn't hard at all."

    So how was it the comfort of the 20° F garage at work?

    Should you revise your tools list to include extra parts like fuses?

  4. Bob: I have an SAE2 wire on all my bikes. I've also made converters for both my tourmaster and gerbing gear to power off of them. I also have a voltmeter on an SAE2. I'm going to make jumper cables on SAE2 next.

    Rogers: They are decedents from ancient BMWs, but with a Russian twist.

    KidMystic: 20F ramp at work was much colder... but not bad. I found my spare gloves in the tool roll, so that helped. I have a bag of extra fuses next to me which is about to go into the trunk.

    New post coming soon about my adventures jump starting the Ural today...

  5. Dear Chris:

    Rogers is partially right. Removing the battery on the K75 still entails disconnecting a few gadgets and moving stuff around, including the motronic brain. It is not nearly as easy as pulling the battery from a 1975 Kawsaki H2. From your posts and those of REDLEGS RIDES, buzzing around on a Ural is an act of mechanical commitment.

    Fondest regard,
    Jack • reep • Toad
    Twisted Roads

  6. Chris, I read this post AFTER reading the one where you had a dead sure these events are not connected? just wondering.

  7. Jack: I think riding anything in this frozen salty winter mess will cause issues. I haven't really experienced any issues with the Ural I wouldn't have on any other bike in these conditions (flat tire, corroded plugs, corroded relay). Of course, another bike wouldn't have made it traction wise either.

    Charlie6: Nope, I did the above because the battery went dead mysteriously and wasn't charging on the tender. I think I found the issue and will post about it later today.

  8. Chris:

    I had a battery problem with the Tender Attached and it drained the battery. I had the Tender connected, but somehow I lost AC power to the tender and didn't notice for a couple of months while it was parked/stored. I think the Tender's internal resistance "drained" the battery. It may have been fine if the tender was not attached at all

    bobskoot: wet coast scootin

  9. Bob: Yikes! That's not a nice. I have a 4-way battery tender and a junior that are plugged into the bikes most of the time.